[ad_1] When we say Zamboanga City is colorful, we’re not just referring to the color-blocked sail of the vinta or the rosy glow of Santa Cruz Grande Island’s Pink Beach. The vividness of Asia’s Latin City goes beyond what the eyes can see. Its intricate history as a settlement and kaleidoscopic mix of cultures are best experienced through another fundamental sense — the sense of taste. Zamboanga City is one of our most-loved food destinations for the sheer range and diversity of what it can bring to the (dining) table. From the saucy red-orange sticks of satti to the motley flavors of knickerbocker, here are some of Zamboanga’s most sought-after culinary delights and where to find them. WHAT’S COVERED IN THIS GUIDE? Ever heard of curacha? If it sounds familiar, it’s probably because it reminds you of La Cucaracha, a Mexican folk song about a cockroach that also became pretty popular in the Philippines. Curacha (in Chavacano) and cucaracha (in Spanish) mean the same — cockroach. And it’s no surprise given that Chavacano, Zamboanga’s dominant language, is a Spanish-based Creole. But before you lose your appetite, know that we’re not going to ask you to go full Fear Factor in Zamboanga. Instead, we’re inviting you to have a taste of the most mouth-watering crustaceans that the region has to offer — spanner crabs! Curacha got its name because of its spiky, hairy appearance that kinda resembles you-know-what. But if you look closely, it kinda appears like the love child of a wide crab and a long lobster. And because it packs more meat and more flavor than the crabs we’re used to, they are sought after. Thankfully, they thrive in the waters surrounding the region. For many, the best place to have a taste of curacha is Alavar Seafood Restaurant, which serves curacha cooked in and doused with its famous specialty sauce, which is made from coconut milk, aligue (crab roe paste) and various spices. This super rich sauce combined with the seafood umami bombs that are curacha, you’ll never taste other crab dishes the same way again. But be warned: It’s not cheap. You can order curacha by the kilo (minimum 1 kg). The last time we dined here, a kilo of it in alavar sauce costs P1500 to P1700, depending on the size of the crabs. The sauce alone is unforgettable. It’s so popular that tourists drop by Alavar on the way to the airport to take home frozen packs of it. But if you’d rather take home freshly caught curacha, head over to Aderes Flea Market in Guiwan. You can purchase uncooked curacha at a lower price here, along with lobsters and other seafood. How familiar are you with Moro dishes? A little bit? Not quite? Not at all? If you live in Metro Manila or nearby areas, you probably haven’t tried it. (Or in my case before my Zamboanga trip, not even heard of it.) We’re used to dishes from Luzon and Visayas. Many of us are even more acquainted with foreign fare. So when in Zamboanga, have a taste of Moro cuisine! More than a third of Zamboanga City’s population practice Islam. The Moros, Filipino Muslims, have developed a food culture that is fascinatingly different from other regions. While garlic, onions and ginger remain common ingredients, the Moros like to also use spices like galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime and turmeric, which are more usual in our maritime Southeast Asian neighbors. Tiyulah itum at the center, surrounded by (clockwise from the top) cucumber sambal, piyassak, chicken kiyaliya, utak-utak, beef adobo, fried fish, beef kulma, chicken piyanggang, fried shrimps. You’ll also notice that the Tausugs love using coconut milk and — get this — burnt or charred coconut, which gives many of its dishes its black appearance. It does look a little bit intimidating at first glance, but trust me, it’s super delicious. It doesn’t taste burnt at all, but it provides depth and complexity to its taste that is quite hard to describe. You’ve gotta taste it yourself. In Zamboanga City, the most convenient place for tourists to sample Moro dishes is Bay Tal Mal. It’s because they serve latal (P749), which is a platter of various Tausug dishes including the following: Tiyulah itum (tiyula itum or tiulah itum, literally “black soup”), beef in black broth made with burnt coconut and spices. Beef kulma, beef cubes stewed in a curry sauce. Piyassak, beef liver cubes cooked with pounded spices, charred coconut and coconut milk Chicken piyanggang, chicken marinated in burnt coconut and various spices and then grilled. Chicken kiyaliya, chicken stewed in coconut milk with lemongrass, turmeric, ginger and other spices. Beef adobo Fried fish Fried shrimp or squid Kiyaliya kapaya, papaya; or cucumber sambal (the sambal is so fab delish!) Although not on the menu, I think one of the dishes on our platter was utak-utak (fried fish cake). You can enjoy this platter of delicacies with rice. But we usually add a plate of mee goreng (P189), which is served with hard boiled egg. We just love mie goreng so we order it whenever we spot it on the menu. (LOL.) But they have a lot more items on its menu. When I tried it for the first time, Bay Tal Mal was still located along Mayor Jaldon Street. But it has since moved to the 4th level of SM Mindpro. Another restaurant that serves this Tausug tray of goodness is Dennis Coffee Garden, situated near the airport. Here, they call it dulang (P950), but it’s basically the same. But while Bay Tal Mal’s platter has 10 different dishes, Dennis’s has six. Speaking of Dennis Coffee Garden… Dennis Coffee Garden‘s roots can be traced back all the way to 1962 Jolo, Sulu, where a small cafe called Omar’s Place was established. Sixty years later, the name has changed and multiple branches have sprouted including this one in Zamboanga City. We already mentioned the dulang or latal that they serve here. But it is